This yr, in my effort to go to each European nation, I made journeys to 2 new cities: Chisinau (pronounced KEE-shee-no), the capital of Moldova, and Minsk, the capital of Belarus.
Why pair these cities (and nations) in a single publish, regardless that these journeys have been months aside? Due to their similarities. Chisinau and Minsk are the capitals of two of the poorest nations in Europe. Each have been previously a part of the Soviet Union, but keep a really Soviet feeling to this present day with clear loyalty to Russia. Each felt like I had gone again in time. And each are off the crushed path for vacationers, due partly to vital language obstacles.
I even realized I’ve loads of related pictures from each cities!
Site visitors in Chisinau.
Site visitors in Minsk.
Parks in Chisinau.
Parks in Minsk.
Friendship in Chisinau.
Friendship in Minsk.
However past the similarities between the 2 cities, my journeys additionally performed out equally. I solely had just a little time to spare, and solely visited one metropolis throughout the nation, regardless that I hate touring that means and attempt to go to extra locations at any time when I can. Each have been stopovers I wasn’t terribly enthusiastic about, with extra thrilling cities (Odessa and Kiev; Vilnius and Tallinn) deliberate subsequent. And I struggled in each cities, by no means feeling snug in both.
Right here’s what I received as much as in these cities.
I arrived in Chisinau on an Air Moldova flight from Bucharest. Because the tiny aircraft dipped and bobbed, my seat neighbor, a forty-something male, smiled and defined to me that the journey was bumpy as a result of smaller planes are bumpier than bigger ones. (As I smiled weakly and thought to myself, “Buddy, I fly for a residing.”)
I hopped into one of many airport taxis, watching the outskirts of the town whirl by as I adopted our path on Google Maps…then was dumbfounded when he dropped me in a parking zone removed from my hostel.
“No,” I advised him, displaying Google Maps and the star of my lodging. “Not right here. Right here. Take me right here.”
He grabbed a bit of paper, wrote down a quantity, and handed it to me.
Are you fucking kidding me? “No,” I snapped. “No. I’m not strolling that far with a suitcase. Take me right here.”
After a couple of minutes of arguing, neither of us understanding the opposite’s language, he lastly acquiesced and drove me to the quiet suburban avenue the place the star was…however the place there was completely no signal of any hostel.
A couple of minutes of looking out revealed hostel was situated behind a fence, and I made my means inside. I grabbed my keys, dropped my bag in my non-public room (which, to my disappointment, was situated off the dorm and much from the only toilet), and went out exploring.
Chisinau’s primary avenue was surrounded by grey, crumbling, blocky Soviet buildings and torn-up sidewalks. An outdated man strolling subsequent to me all of the sudden unzipped his fly and commenced urinating on a staircase. Meals stands would have “pizza” of their title however not truly promote any. And once I noticed the roadside stands, I used to be bemused by the t-shirts on the market: Putin in sun shades. Putin with a machine gun. Putin in karate gear kicking Obama within the face.
Bleak was the phrase that saved operating by my head. I’ve all the time felt like Jap Europe stereotypes have been massively overblown, however Chisinau felt so miserable, it was pulling me down. Even strolling by the parks couldn’t elevate my spirits.
By the tip of my first afternoon, I believed to myself, “How the hell am I going to spend three days right here?”
However did Chisinau get higher? Sure, it did.
First off, Moldova has among the most outstandingly scrumptious purple wine I’ve ever tasted. Severely, it may go face to face with Italy and France and Napa, and a glass gained’t price you various .
Sadly, close by Cricova Vineyard was not accepting visitors, however I went to just a little wine store known as Carpe Diem and received to pattern a number of native libations. It’s very costly by Moldovan requirements — I believe I paid round $15 USD for 5 beneficiant pours — however with so little to do within the metropolis, I didn’t thoughts the splurge.
The National Art Museum of Moldova was tiny however beautiful, that includes artwork by each native and worldwide artists.
And I spent a great chunk of time at Tucano Coffee, arguably the best cafe in Chisinau, however extra like a Starbucks than anything.
As a solo feminine traveler in Moldova, I felt protected for essentially the most half — other than the unlit streets and barking stray canines surrounding the hostel. However when it got here time to plan a day journey to Orhei Vechi, simply exterior the town, I used to be advised that the choices have been both to attend round hours for the returning minibus (no thanks) or to rent a personal driver for 50 to 100 euros.
Now, this wasn’t a automotive service or tour you can ebook on-line — this was simply “some man with a automotive” that the hostel proprietor knew. I’ll typically say sure to that once I’m touring with another person, however once I’m touring solo, that’s the place I hesitate. Typically I resolve to go for it — like once I was in Albania, there was no connecting bus in Fier, and I simply employed a random man with a van to take me to Berat. But I felt very comfortable in Albania. And different instances, like once I wished to go to Preah Vihear in Cambodia however received the “some man with a automotive” possibility, I made a decision to skip it, as my third trip to Cambodia had been defined by extortion and robbery.
Moldova isn’t a spot the place I felt snug being alone in a automotive with an odd man — and for that purpose, I made a decision to not go to Orhei Vechi in any respect. Nor the quasi-republic of Transnistria, which I remorse a bit, however it was simply too logistically tough.
Ultimately, I departed Chisinau by bus to the gorgeous city of Odessa, Ukraine. Discovering the suitable bus and shopping for my ticket was a little bit of a problem with the language barrier, however the border crossing couldn’t have been simpler.
There’s one reference about Minsk that everybody in my era is aware of: it’s the place Phoebe’s boyfriend David the scientist moved! The statues of Lenin reminded him of her magnificence! Wait, you all know I’m speaking about Associates, proper?
First issues first: Belarus will be difficult with no visa for many nationalities, however presently it’s attainable for US residents to go to visa-free if 1) they arrive and depart by air, not by way of Russia 2) they keep for lower than 5 days three) they acquire medical insurance coverage overlaying 10,000 euros.
I arrived in Minsk on a Belavia flight from Helsinki. And let me say that immigration will not be joyful once you pull out cellphone to point out your onward ticket and World Nomads journey insurance coverage coverage in your cellphone. I received yelled at rather a lot. Print them each out! (And in case you don’t have journey insurance coverage, there’s a spot by immigration the place you should buy it.)
Minsk was overwhelming from the beginning. My cab driver dragged me all around the airport earlier than getting me to depart the town, and he had a tough time discovering the place to drop me off, then I had main hassle discovering my condo. The language barrier was robust — the younger man who let me into the condo and I had to make use of Google Translate to speak.
If I hadn’t had a information of Cyrillic from my earlier journeys to Jap Europe, I’d have been utterly misplaced.
I used to be fortunate that I truly had web within the condo, although — nearly all over the place in Minsk requires you to have a SIM card to be able to entry wifi (they ship passwords by way of SMS). As somebody who makes use of wifi to navigate her means all over the place, I discovered it a bit irritating having to do all my analysis prematurely on the condo after which wing it for the remainder of the day. A throwback to the journey fashion of yore!
The unusual factor about Belarus is that there are two official languages — Russian and Belarusian — and the metro stations every have Russian and Belarusian names, which are sometimes completely totally different. For instance, one station will be known as both “Plošča Lenina” or “Vakzalnaja.” After which the practice would possibly announce the station in a single language however the indicators are within the different language! You principally should memorize each names and double-check.
I used to be initially planning to depart Minsk by practice to Vilnius, Lithuania, and spent a very long time painstakingly shopping for a practice ticket, writing down what I believed was “Vilnius” in Cyrillic, then complicated the woman much more.
Then, fortunately, one in every of my readers identified that underneath this visa-free scheme, I needed to depart by aircraft as properly. I double-checked on-line and she or he was proper! It was insane — the US State Dept site solely says that you have to enter Belarus by air, not depart by air. The Belarus Embassy in the US site, nonetheless, does say that you have to depart by air as properly.
That may be a main oversight and I’m shocked that the US State Division would omit such crucial data. Had I taken that practice to the border, I’d have been in a LOT of hassle. At any fee, I’m dearly grateful to my pricey reader and I’m shopping for her dinner if our paths ever cross. I used to be capable of get a flight to Vilnius for about $60.
However did Minsk get higher? Sure, it truly did.
I grew to understand the grandeur of Minsk. It wasn’t on the extent of anyplace in Ukraine, however I liked the vast avenues, massive buildings, and the way the brilliant yellows performed in opposition to the blue sky.
I liked discovering that Belarusian girls love shopping for flowers. There have been tons of flower stands within the underground passageways all through the town.
I discovered an lovely coffeeshop known as Uptopiya 60 — they usually have been the one place within the metropolis the place I didn’t want a SIM card to get wifi entry! Which meant I may truly summon an Uber to take me to the airport!
However for me, the most important spotlight was strolling alongside the river. It was a stunning day and I liked seeing individuals out and about — the amorous , the bickering moms and daughters, the twenty-something guys taking super-serious selfies gazing into the gap.
Might I’ve finished extra in Minsk? Completely. There are such a lot of museums and viewpoints and day journeys I may have skilled. There simply wasn’t sufficient time on this journey.
To be frank, I doubt I’ll be returning to Chisinau or Minsk. If a cool alternative arises, maybe, however I doubt both metropolis has sufficient draw to drag me again. Might I’ve finished a greater job exploring both metropolis (and nation)? Completely! I’ll be the primary to level out that I didn’t do practically sufficient!
However does that imply that I’ve to return and do it proper? All of us have a finite period of time on this planet, and I plan to spend mine exploring new and beloved locations, somewhat than returning to do Moldova and Belarus over once more.
Even so, I’m glad I went to each Chisinau and Minsk. Each felt like touring again in time; each gave me an concept of what it was prefer to reside behind the shadow of the Soviet Union. Each have been a reminder that Europe isn’t all pretty old towns and tourism-driven cities.
If Chisinau or Minsk appear to be your type of place, I believe it is best to positively go! However in case you’d like one thing nonetheless Jap European and off the crushed path and a bit like a time capsule however maybe just a little bit nicer and simpler to journey, I wholeheartedly suggest Tirana, Albania; Skopje, Macedonia; and Kiev and Odessa, Ukraine.
READ NEXT: The Funk Factor of Tirana, Albania
Important Data: In Chisinau I stayed at Chisinau Chill Hostel, which was first rate, however I would favor to remain in a nicer place in a greater location subsequent time. Do be aware that the one non-public room is off the dorm, so it’s a must to stroll by the dorm to be able to go to the toilet or anyplace else. The encompassing streets are unlit at night time, so be sure you get again earlier than it will get darkish. There are a number of stray canines within the neighborhood. Dorms from $6; non-public with shared tub from $22.
Admission to the National Art Museum is 10 Moldovan leu ($zero.50).
In Minsk I stayed at Minsk Centre Apartment, a pleasant and central one-bedroom condo. The toughest half was arranging the arrival and key drop-off, since Minsk has nearly no web accessible with no SIM card. Full condo from $37 per night time.
Journey insurance coverage is significant for journeys, and it’s a authorized requirement for visiting Belarus. Whether or not you get appendicitis and should be hospitalized, or your cellphone will get stolen, or an damage means it is advisable cancel all or a part of your journey, journey insurance coverage will show you how to in your time of want. I use and recommend World Nomads as travel insurance for trips to Moldova and Belarus.
Have you ever been to Chisinau or Minsk? Or elsewhere in Moldova or Belarus? What did you assume?